Saturday, October 28, 2006

Viktor&Rolf for H&M...Amazing

Im going to declare tonights event as the most fabulous and most spectacular party I have attended in LA. Not only was this by far the most impressive show of Fashion week, regardless of the fact that it was a week later, it was also just the most amazing venue and all around production that LA has seen in recent times.

In attendance was everyone from the Olsen Twins, to Liz Goldwyn and Chloe Sevigny holding hand, Jody Watley, Merle Ginsberg, Hillary Alexander of The Daily Telegraph, stylists galore, the Dior boys of Dior Homme B.H., Garcelle Beauvais, Vanessa Traina, China Chow, Christina Milian, Kanye West, Kate Walsh, the men and women of American Rag and Paul Smith and a slew of other fabulous and fashionable who's who from LA. Of course the men of Decades Inc.

The party to celebrate the launch on November 9th of the Viktor&Rolf collaboration with Swedish fashion firm H&M was sumptuous and glamorous. The runway show was styled by Andrea Leiberman, the musical stylings were grand orchestral re-works of some of today's hottest artists' number ones and the liquor was all champagne. As it should be at any fabulous wedding.


Most exciting was the arena of historically referenced, yet forward thinking designs that sauntered down the catwalk truly embodying V&R style yet setting a trend for more formal dressing. Even from a fast-fashion force like H&M it is nice to see an attempt to better dress the masses. Looks for men and women were sleek, quirky, wearable and covetable. The lines at the Beverly Center are sure to reak havoc when the line finally arrives on November 9th.



While most of us will have to wait for that day to aquire our new fabulous wardrobes, starlets such as Carmen Electra are already getting the chance to show off their favorite pieces. She turned up covered head to toe in the new line, a peacoat with black glossy heart button details, the signature heart motif tights, skirt and blouse and Azzaro knee high black patent boots.



The male models of course looked like mini-me versions of V&R, doing the gentleman justice. After our first glimse of the designer duo upon our entry, standing guard to the party with their mutual bride in the wedding gown set to retail for $300, we could only love these men in anticipation of their final walk down the runway.



When the duo finally appeared for the finally with their beloved bride rupturous cheers and applause echoed throughout the linened hall and fake rose petals tumbled from the rafters covering all in attendance. Oppulence? Why yes, it is the only way. The cake at the head of the runway? Yes, actually a real cake that the waiters proceeded to cut and serve at the end of the runway presentation.

I hope you enjoyed the show just as much as we did, and we will see you in line to get first dibs on the collection when it hits store in two thursdays time.

Alexander

Thursday, October 19, 2006

Bebe Collection


Above is a shot of the runway pre-Spring 2007 collection debut at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in LA. Below is what the runway looked like once the guests and celebrities like Mischa Barton had filtered in and taken their seats.


While I was still distressed to see that the models were strutting their stuff in slutty hooker shoes, I was at least comforted by the fact that they could actually walk in them unlike the previous shows I had seen. Kudos to stylist Paula Bradley, who normally styles Kelis, gave this David Cardona debut collection a touch of her spunk. Satin visors tilted just so, and yes the slutty hooker shoes. Somehow it all seemed to work.


While the collection appeared to hail from the tomes of Balenciaga, Cristobal not Nicolas, and Dior 'New Look', it was far from typical LA fashion. So why was it shown here? Many people like Cameron Silver, owner of Decades boutique and writer for style.com, Merle Ginsberg, we all know who she is, and Lawren Howell, West Coast Editor of Vogue, all praised the freshness of the collection for the esteemed house of Bebe. No accent needed.


However there was one West Coast Editor who shall remained unnamed both for his sweetness and his commentary, who said his eyes were still bleeding as he drove home and that specifically women should never wear see-through lace, least of all shitty see-through lace.

Mixed reviews then from the front rows at Smashbox studios.

Wednesday, October 18, 2006

Jennifer Nicholson

Perhaps it was Jennifer Nicholson's intention to raid her Halloween dress up box a fortnight before all hallows eve and then let models stumble down the runway at Smashbox Studios. However, if any one had known these to be her desire prior to the show, they should have locked her in a cage and stopped her from allowing the carnage that was her Spring 2007 line.

In all honesty perhaps I am being slightly harsh, but when a trrain wreck is more artistic I am not really sure as to what I ought to say. Perhaps the best is to say nothing at all.

I also had a strange feeling either the designer or the stylist had taken recent W shoots a little too seriously when they suggested wearing House of Harlot PVC tights with practically everything. Only a good look if you work in Blue movies in East Berlin.



Tuesday, October 17, 2006

Morphine Generation- Mercedes-Benz LA Fashion Week

Last night, sitting along side, style.com, Senior Fashion Editors from major publications and a few D listers who shall not be mentioned, I viewed the Morphine Generation Spring 2007 line for men and women.

Beyond the fact that I was neither impressed or inspired, it occurred to me there really are too many Designers who do nothing, that still sells.


In this one, front row, shot of the runway taken from my seat, you can see three of the men's looks. The one element of the show, that allows Angelenos some sense of fashion savvy were the character shoes for men and women. Either capezio jazz flats or tap shoes sans tap. While designers try to push the limits on the size of the sole, think Lanvin absurdly priced ballet flats that wear down after one use, perhaps the place to turn are to the great dancewear designers, like Freed, Capezio and Repetto. Incidentally, Repetto is already growing in popularity in the fashion capitals of the world and somehow has found its way to little ole Los Angeles too.

This I do find noteworthy in a sea of un-noteworthy fashion. Sadly I reside in this city and my only option is to make it work.

Onwards and upwards I say, so gentleman trudge on in search of the perfect garments and stay tuned for further news.

Mr. E.S. Quire

Friday, October 13, 2006

Old news but still good.

The news may already be a month old, but I'm still excited to see what Olivier Theyskens does at the house of Nina Ricci. Having started his career dressing Madonna, the young blood (29) has come a long way.

His first collection for Ricci will be Fall 2007, to be shown in March.

Saturday, October 07, 2006

Chanel for Men Spring 07

We are all are familiar with our dear lord and savior, Karl Lagerfeld. The amazing work he has done for Fendi, Chloe, Lagerfeld Gallery, Chanel. But for three seasons now he has taken his pencils and turned his demure and luxurious palette to his own sex and is perfected the art of dressing a gentleman. Well yesterday, in Paris he took it to the next level.

True this make come as not only a shock but a break from conventional gentlemanliness. I do not think that really matters. What matters is that we men can finally wear Chanel and it doesn't mean stealing from our girlfriends collections of oversized cashmere Chanel cardigans. We can buy our own...

I am aware that the previous collections for men, available at the SoHo Chanel store and Chanel in Paris, was slightly too effeminate. Boucle blazers for men, dior homme like shirting unfinished and trailer trashy at much too high a cost. Well now Karl has decided that being a man is all about being a gentleman. In style, but not stylized. Comfortable, but not casual. Chic, but not over the top. This capsule collection shown during Paris Fashion week is stunning and impeccable and totally covetable!








There is a certain rock and roll about the elegance of the lines, and fits of the collections. There is also very un-Karl like over tones of more masculine dominance and possession of your wardrobe, wearing the clothing and not letting it wear you. We all love Karl for his style, but sometimes I cannot help but think he looks like a clown when he dresses himself. There is no chance of that here. Truly masculine in many senses of the word, I think this is near perfection.

to view the complete collection go to www.style.com

Friday, October 06, 2006

Kris Van Assche

Not only do I immensely love the idea behind this collection, American Gigolo on the runway, but I love the collection itself. Here is clothing for the fashion conscious gentleman about town. The looks go from casual and chic, to dressed up and elegant. There is probably something for every man in here and what's even better is the palette is not rude at all.

There is more grey than you could shake a stick at but that is no matter for Spring 2007 as, grey is coming out in a big way. Personally I am a huge fan of grey. It does not mean you have made the commitment of black,a darker and more serious color and it does not mean you were so boring to wear white again. Grey is a subtle and sophisticated color to pull of well, in any other garment than a suit. Even then the territory, un-familiar to many can be tricky.



These two looks, above and below, to me signify this collection entirely. The three piece suit worn in a relaxed fashion, and an actually relaxed more athletic look, all grey, all sophisticated and all man. Quite pleasing. Kris Van Assche is certainly one to keep your eyes on for future collections and what he does to transform the male.


Of course I cannot leave out the sex appeal that raged in this collection. Sure he took his inspiration from American Gigolo, but who thought of putting the paying clientele on the runway in matching outfits? Van Assche did of course and to tremendous avail. It actually makes you want to wear the clothes even more, hoping that you too might be so lucky as to land a catch such as these? Sexy, older women, taking control and in charge. Say hello to every gentleman's new fantasy. If it wasn't already.

When will he stop?

There is just something about Nicolas Ghesquiere. It could be his hair, his lip, his eye, the brooding look we are so used to, a combo of the aforementioned, or just his pure talent. I have little to say for men's Balenciaga other than I am continually bowled over by its simplicity and stately combination of layers, colors and fabrics. I rush out to buy whenever I can, and I live to own all the time. I hope he never stops is the answer. It is so good.


This third look, says many things to me, but one most important is that camel is coming back.

Thom Browne, I'm terribly sorry, but, excuse me?

Thom Browne may be the new sweetheart of the men's clothing industry but he does not win my heart. I'm not sure if it's the middle class mid 50s accountant, can't afford to buy new trousers so I'll just wear them short, aesthetic that he goes for. Or that fact that this collection for Spring 2007 is just plain horrendous.

It's one thing to wear a bee keepers mask if you keep bees, but to wear one as above and below matched with a classic boater, a tail coat with a train and American Apparel knee-high tube socks, that's completely out of the question. Perhaps dear Thom is trying too hard. Mixing too many elements of classical dress in one encompassing collection. I can see where he is going, I will give him that, but sometimes too much is really too much.


This jacket below, pushes it too far. Drag queens would be hard pressed to wear this outfit, and that's saying something. Now I am of course, all for dressing appropriately, harking back to a bygone era of formal dress, greater style and simply better cut clothing, but that does not mean you have to look like a young boy playing dress up in your fathers finery in the mid 50s. It just still doesn't gel for me. Not quite yet dear Thom Browne.

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